BIRDING ROAD TRIP - Costa Rica 2018
Here are some photos from the epic road trip thru Costa Rica with Tropical Feathers and founder Noel Ureña
(January 21 - February 12, 2018)

Part Three

Itinerary:

Jan 21 Arrive in Costa Rica - Hotel Bougainvillea Part One (link)
Jan 22-24 La Selva Biological Station
Jan 25-26 Poas Volcano Lodge
Jan 27-28 Natural Lodge Caño Negro Part Two (link)
Jan 29-30 Celeste Mountain Lodge
Jan 31 Hotel Fonda VelaMonteverde
Feb 1 La Ensenada
Feb 2-4 Cerro LodgeCarara National Park - Tarcoles River Mangrove Part Three (below)
Feb 5-7 Esquinas Rainforest Lodge
Feb 8-10 Suenos del Bosque LodgeTalamanca - Savegre Hotel
Feb 11 Hotel Bougainvillea
Feb 12 Flight Home
Bonus Hummingbirds & Owls/Night Birds & List of Birds by location Part Four (link)

After a night in La Ensenada, we headed south toward Cerro Lodge...

     
 
    Exit to the Gulf of Nicoya - left-center
 
One of our favorite places to stay... maybe our favorite.   Good restaurant surrounded by natural distractions.
 
Our cabin    
 
Air conditioned...   with a bathroom that has an outside garden for an outer wall
 
Truly unique experience...   especially the shower.
 
Scarlet Macaws
 
Variegated Squirrel
 
Turquoise Motmot

Lodge grounds
 
    Cerro Lodge gift shop
 
White-whiskered Puffbird   Chestnut-backed Antbirds
 
Black-hooded Antshrike (m) (Endemic)   Black-hooded Antshrike (f) (Endemic)
Rufous-backed Wren
 
Great Tinamou   [I'm sure there's a fitting caption here...]
 
Love the last line   Scarlet Macaws are seen throughout the area

Touring the mangroves
 
    Mangrove Swallow (a pair have a nest on the boat above where the captain sits)
 
Osprey   Brown Pelican
 
Amazon Kingfisher   Ringed Kingfisher
 
Boat-billed Heron (showing off)   Bare-throated Tiger-Heron
 
Mangrove Warbler (free the Mangrove Warbler! ...birding joke.)   Common Tody-Flycatcher
 
Little Blue Heron   Magnificent Frigatebird (f)
 
Gray-headed Kite   For some reason, this Black Hawk didn't like the Gray-headed Kite sitting where it was; so it flew in to harass it and ended up hanging upside down until it righted itself
 
Tarcoles River   Tarcoles River - where the river hits the sea
 
Nearby beach at sunset - last day before school starts... people partying.   Sunset over the end of the Nicoya Peninsula
 
Lesser Ground-Cuckoo (responding to Noel's recording)
     

On our way out, we stopped at a nearby side road to try to call out an owl...

 
Pacific Screech-Owl   And another one in the same spot(!)
     

Next, down the coast to Esquinas...

   
     
 
Jaco   Palm groves
 
Manuel Antonio area
 
Was looking for Squirrel Monkeys here, but struck out and went quickly back to the road... too many tourists about
 
    Stopped here for one main reason...
 
Had to walk along the beach and then into a Mangrove thicket...
 
Almost here...   Mangrove Hummingbird (!) (Endemic)
 
And for a bonus, a Hoffman's Two-toed Sloth resting in the trees

House Wren
 
    We three, along the beach
 
Then up the hill to Hotel Cristal Ballena for lunch   More cow art
 
    View of the ocean and Costa Rican Swifts (Endemic)!
 
Streaked Flycatcher   Canopy with two Black-cowled Orioles
 
Fruit   This mushroom was easily 16" in diameter
 
After a few more Km's south... Esquinas Rainforest Lodge   View from our room in early morning
 
Looking across the pond to the Restaurant   Long-nosed Bats roosting above the bar refrigerator (only about 3")
 
Charming Hummingbird (Endemic)   Wild Orchids
 
Gray-naped Wood-Rail   Helmeted Basilisk
 
Cherrie's Tanager (f) with grasshopper (Endemic)   Slaty-tailed Trogon (m)
 
White-crested Coquette (Endemic)
 
Fork-tailed Flycatcher
 
White Ibis   Northern Jacana
 
Birdus Domesticus
     
 
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper   Pale-billed Woodpecker
 
Ginger   Heliconia
 
Northern Royal Flycatcher
 
Rincon River - came here to look for the Yellow-billed Cotinga
 
Yellow-billed Cotinga (Endemic)   Gray-breasted Martin
 
Pale-breasted Spinetail   Southern Rough-winged Swallow
     

We have seen the Striped Owl before - a couple of times, but only flying away; so we were hoping for a closer look.  We looked several places for this along the way but with no luck.  We weren't having any luck in Esquinas either and were on our way back to the lodge after a final unsuccessful attempt when one showed up in tree branches right next to the road.  This was all we ever hoped for.  As a bonus, Noel managed to lure in a Tropical Screech-Owl.  It was the first time he's seen the Screech-Owl at Esquinas.

 
Striped Owl   Tropical Screech-Owl
 
Chiriqui Yellowthroat (Endemic)   Common Gallinule
 
Blue-headed Parrot   Boat-billed Heron (young)

Banana trees with coffee plants - definitely eco-friendly
 
    Coffee plant - harvest is almost over
 
In town   There was a Tropical Mockingbird down that alley
 
Nice homes in San Vito
 
Speckled Tanagers   Green Honeycreeper
 
Streaked Saltator   Cherrie's Tanager (m) (Endemic)
 
Red-tailed Squirrel - stealing banana from the bird feeder   White-throated Thrush
Marbled Wood-Quail - well, this is us getting a peak at a couple of them deep in the thicket
 
A unique palm tree - Traveler's Palm
at Wilson Botanical Garden
Ginger (there are many varieties)    
 
Looking into Panama   Down on the lowlands, closer to the Panama border, good grassland birding
 
Plowing is excellent for attracting birds. 
(Wood Storks, Vultures, Egrets, Caracara)
  Distant Savanna Hawk (somewhat rare here)
 
Osprey with fish   Rock Pigeons (not so rare)

Sunset
 
    Tree Frog
     

On to our final birding destination, San Gerardo de Dota valley...

   
     

Along the way, we went up into the savanna (Alto Salitre Savanas) to look for Ocellated Crakes...

 
 We heard the Ocellated Crakes... very close... maybe 5 feet... but not coming out.
 
Lesser Elaenia   Not crakes
 
Elegant Euphonia   Bare-crowned Antbird (deep in the thicket)
 
Double-toothed Kite   Eastern Meadowlark
 
Turquoise Cotinga (Endemic)   Pearl Kite
 

In September-October 2017, Costa Rica and the countries north experienced unusually large amounts of rain; and then Tropical storm Nate hit, with steady hard rain pouring for about three and a half days straight.  All this caused deaths and extensive damage that was still being cleaned up when we arrived.  This bridge is near Noel's end of town in San Isidro de El General.  You can see that the thick steel frame was bent and twisted.  Large boulders in many different streams came washing down, wiping out what ever was in their path.  Where riparian forests lined streams, there is now a rocky lining.

 

What caused the bridge to be wiped out was a factory up stream.  Legal wrangling is still in progress, but the locals took matters into their own hands and put in a temporary bridge.   What's cool is that a stand is set up on one side to take donations and the money rolls in. 

 
Tropical Feathers HQ is based on the lower level.   Noel's backyard
 
Dorkie   San Isidro de El General
     

Then on to the San Gerardo de Dota region and Suenos del Bosque Lodge...

 
    Noel's wife, Sulma joined us
 
Savegre River
 
Restaurant   Pond behind cabins
 
Our cabin   Had an upstairs, two bedrooms downstairs, living room w/ TV and Kitchen
     

We were eating breakfast at the restaurant and one of the staff calls out that there's a Quetzal out front... the restaurant emptied...

We could see it back in the forest from where we stood, but Noel was making a bee line to a newly build bridge that climbs into mid-canopy - and we followed close behind.  Lucky for us, no one else followed because the bridge was very bouncy and photos would have been difficult.  When we got up there, he whistled an imitation call a few times and then played a recording.  Here it came - real close.  This is a male that is either immature or lost its tail feathers.  You'll see one with tail feathers further down the page.  Different colors shimmer when the bird turns.  Quite a sight.

 
Resplendent Quetzal   The main feature of the Dota region (more to come)
 
Spotted Wood-Quail (not far from the cabin)
 
Volcano Hummingbird (f) (Endemic)   Heliconia
Rufous-browed Peppershrike (a canopy bird - got lucky when it came down almost to eye level)
     

For us, Providencia Road was our favorite place to explore last trip and this trip was even better... far better...

 

The Savegre and Providencia river valley area was first settled by ancestors of Noel (Chacon) Ureña.  They worked their way up from the bottom (ocean side) in the 1950's and settled throughout the area.  As we made our way down the road, we ran into many of Noel's relatives, especially in the little town of Providencia.

 
 
The area is also a National Park because of the Quetzals
This way...    
 
Coffee is grown here (excellent coffee) along with other crops   The town of Providencia
 
This one was hard to find.  We could hear it calling and see the birds that were mobbing it, but we had to find the right window.  Noel, of course, found the window.   Costa Rican Pygmy-Owl (Endemic)
 
Black Guan (Endemic)   Sooty Thrush (Endemic)
 
We were watching a couple Quetzals moving further into the forest when this hummer flew right past us and landed nearby.  It was a nesting Volcano Hummingbird
 
The road gets tougher the deeper we went into the valley.
 
Ran into a lone Spider Monkey trying to scare us away.
 
After exploring for a while, we stopped at a restaurant and lodge owned by one of Noel's aunt Ana and her husband Enrique.   Along with the good food were exceptional feeders for both passerines and hummingbirds
 
Stripe-tailed Hummingbird
 
Flame-colored Tanager   Green Hermit
 
Steely-vented Hummingbird
 
Buff-throated Saltator   Rufous-collared Sparrow
 
Snowy-bellied Hummingbird (Endemic)
 
Red-legged Honeycreeper (m / f)
 
Slaty Flowerpiercer (Endemic)    
 
Violet Sabrewing (f / m)
 
Blue-Gray Tanager   Charlie the alien dog
 
Green-crowned Brilliant (f)   Lesser Violetear
 
Tennessee Warbler   Broad-winged Hawk
 
Black-faced Solitaire (Endemic)   Clay-colored Thrush (Costa Rican National Bird)
- with Silver-throated Tanager and Red-legged Honeycreeper flashing by
 
We went still further into the valley and came to the spot where Noel has purchased some property.   His neighbor only comes here occasionally.  Nice place!
 
A newly plowed section - making plans on what to do next.  You can see coffee plants lined up on the hill beneath and above.
     
At one location along the mountain road, we were able to see down to the ocean - a super rare sight from that far away.  Neither Noel nor his father has seen this.  Usually cloudy or hazy.  Since the GPS coordinates were known from the camera, I measured the straight line-of-sight distance to the island - 23 miles.  Quepos and Manuel Antonio are just to the right - the southern tip can be seen.  Quite a view.
     
 
On our way out (after looking for owls), Noel spotted this dark object moving next to the road - Mexican Hairy Porcupine
And on the way back down the road to the lodge, we stopped and called out a Dusky Nightjar (endemic)

In the morning, we headed up to the radio towers - over 11,000 feet
 
    Volcano Junco (Endemic)
 
Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush (Endemic)   Volcano Hummingbird (m) (Endemic)
There are three sub-species in Costa Rica, each having a different color bib. 
The one in the Talamanca Mountains has a blue bib.
 
Sooty-capped Chlorospingus (Endemic)    
 
Timberline Wren (Endemic)   ...notice that all the birds at the radio towers are endemic
 
Miriam's Restaurant - good food, good feeders
 
Acorn Woodpecker   Red-tailed Squirrel
 
Large-footed Finch (Endemic)   Mountain Thrush
     

We stopped at Paraiso de Quetzal Lodge which has exceptional Hummingbird feeders set up with the endemic Fiery-throated Hummingbird a regular visitor...

 
Hummingbird viewing area   Talamanca Hummingbird (m) (Endemic)
 
Lesser Violetear   Talamanca Hummingbird (f) (Endemic)
 
Volcano Hummingbird (f) (Endemic)   Yellow-thighed Finch (Endemic)
 
Fiery-throated Hummingbird (Endemic)
 
Carving of Three-wattled Bellbirds   Fruit

 

The owner of the lodge, Jorge Serrano, does excellent carvings.  The above two Bellbirds were done by him as well as even more impressive carvings throughout the restaurant (should have taken more pictures, but you'll just have to visit for yourself).

When I was buying the compelling little carving of the Quetzal (right, about 12"), he brought out a new carving that was in the works - an very large high detail Quetzal.  Remarkable work.

 
 

While we were enjoying the intensity of the hummingbirds... someone spotted a distant pair of Quetzals.  Noel started attempting to call them in, whistling and playing a recording.  We heard a young Chinese girl behind us say to her boyfriend "He's going to call them in".  The boyfriend responded skeptically "No Way".  Well, here they came...  All the boyfriend could say was "Awesome"!

 
Resplendent Quetzal (f / m)
Awesome indeed !
 

Well, it's time to hop on our horse and head back to San Jose to complete our circuit... and then on to our California home...

 
     

Noel dropped us off at the San Jose Airport about 4:30 AM... 

 
...after Monique was snagged for a bag search, we took off at 7 AM... San Jose and Dallas are in the same time zone - (CST), so no real jet lag...
 
...cold front still hanging over Monteverde...   ... and into Dallas by 11:30 AM (wall to wall clouds)...
 
 
...out of Dallas 5 1/2 hours later(!) - clouds gone...   ...Sacramento by 7 PM (PST)... (need to pack less next time)...
     
...and home by 8PM ... munching on Thin Mints by 8:30.
     
     

We'd like to give a super special thank you(!) to our friend and companion Noel Ureña for the exceptional tour - and to his wife, Sulma for letting him go.

 
 

If you're ever down in Costa Rica (highly recommended!) and want THE BEST birding guide in the country, contact Tropical Feathers

 
Part 4 - Hummers and Owls
 

Index:

Jan 21 Arrive in Costa Rica - Hotel Bougainvillea Part One (link)
Jan 22-24 La Selva Biological Station
Jan 25-26 Poas Volcano Lodge
Jan 27-28 Natural Lodge Caño Negro Part Two (link)
Jan 29-30 Celeste Mountain Lodge
Jan 31 Hotel Fonda VelaMonteverde
Feb 1 La Ensenada
Feb 2-4 Cerro LodgeCarara National Park - Tarcoles River Mangrove Part Three (below)
Feb 5-7 Esquinas Rainforest Lodge
Feb 8-10 Suenos del Bosque LodgeTalamanca - Savegre Hotel
Feb 11 Hotel Bougainvillea
Feb 12 Flight Home
Bonus Hummingbirds & Owls/Night Birds & List of Birds by location Part Four (link)